Temperature Task

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Primate
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by Primate »

JTMess wrote:Our team used a bimetallic coil from a thermometer with the needle still on it to complete a circuit. We were a little worried about the time it would take to cool enough, but we got with 3 secs of a minute at regionals.
Interestingly enough, the bimetallic strip is actually one of our most reliable transfers. Usually it's the sand timer and the balloon that are the issue.
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by yousmellchinese123 »

Primate wrote:
JTMess wrote:Our team used a bimetallic coil from a thermometer with the needle still on it to complete a circuit. We were a little worried about the time it would take to cool enough, but we got with 3 secs of a minute at regionals.
Interestingly enough, the bimetallic strip is actually one of our most reliable transfers. Usually it's the sand timer and the balloon that are the issue.
Haha, Ours too I like bimetallic strips now.
It was suprising that the balloon chemical reaction proved to be the toughest task to get down so far for me.
But, I haven't built the Sand timer or final task yet so :mrgreen:
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Re: Temperature Task

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For some reason, whenever I put the nichrome wire around the little end of the bimetallic coil, it doesn't work. I got the coil from an outdoor thermometer at Lowes and pulled it out with my hands. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a six volt battery for electricity.
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Re: Temperature Task

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questionguy wrote:For some reason, whenever I put the nichrome wire around the little end of the bimetallic coil, it doesn't work. I got the coil from an outdoor thermometer at Lowes and pulled it out with my hands. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a six volt battery for electricity.
First of all, try running the current directly through a little piece of the strip (3 to 4 inches, just recurl it up). Also, the strips from meat thermometers are a million times easier to use--they don't require nearly as much juice to curl. My outdoor thermometer required a soldering iron to actually move...
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by questionguy »

Primate wrote:
questionguy wrote:For some reason, whenever I put the nichrome wire around the little end of the bimetallic coil, it doesn't work. I got the coil from an outdoor thermometer at Lowes and pulled it out with my hands. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a six volt battery for electricity.
First of all, try running the current directly through a little piece of the strip (3 to 4 inches, just recurl it up). Also, the strips from meat thermometers are a million times easier to use--they don't require nearly as much juice to curl. My outdoor thermometer required a soldering iron to actually move...
Thanks a lot, I'll be sure to try that!
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by JTMess »

Primate wrote:
JTMess wrote:Our team used a bimetallic coil from a thermometer with the needle still on it to complete a circuit. We were a little worried about the time it would take to cool enough, but we got with 3 secs of a minute at regionals.
Interestingly enough, the bimetallic strip is actually one of our most reliable transfers. Usually it's the sand timer and the balloon that are the issue.
We are going to try a breaker or thermal limit switch at states. The thermal limit switches should have much more accurate timing since they are factory made and guaranteed to operate within 5 degrees of their labels.
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Re: Temperature Task and Light

Post by abobick »

Can we simply turn off a light bulb for the cooling temperature task? It is the decrease in temperature of the filament that turns off the light, which can then open a photo-resistor which can open a relay, etc, etc.
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Re: Temperature Task and Light

Post by Primate »

abobick wrote:Can we simply turn off a light bulb for the cooling temperature task? It is the decrease in temperature of the filament that turns off the light, which can then open a photo-resistor which can open a relay, etc, etc.
That's actually a genius idea. I don't see why it wouldn't count.
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by DeltaHat »

Primate wrote:
abobick wrote:Can we simply turn off a light bulb for the cooling temperature task? It is the decrease in temperature of the filament that turns off the light, which can then open a photo-resistor which can open a relay, etc, etc.
That's actually a genius idea. I don't see why it wouldn't count.
Be real careful when wording this. You need to be crystal clear on your transfer list exactly what is going on.
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Re: Temperature Task

Post by missionimpossible »

Sorry I'm an amateur at this but...

1) If you were using bimetallic strips, can you please clearly explain how you would make that work?
2) Also, what can the coiling of the strip do?
3) We can use dry ice and one of my teachers said that if you vertically embed a quarter into dry ice, the quarter will shake back and forth since it is melting the dry ice. I haven't tried this, but dry ice might work.
4) Also I'm not sure if this is possible, you know how hot air rises, and cool air sinks? Maybe if you applied that to something, for example (this prolly won't work, but just for the sake of explaining) a rubber cork, then somehow you made it really cold and it sinks (in water) and sets off a lever in the bottom. I don't know...
5) In the rules it states that compressed air does not work because other chemicals are in it, but say we get purely air into a compressed container, how would spraying that help to decrease the temperature?

Sorry this is super long to read :D
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