Bring it on buckarooillusionist wrote:I'ma beat you this year lucwilder..... Watch out!
Rubber
- lucwilder42
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Re: Rubber
I'm just here to build bridges
- lllazar
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Re: Rubber
Where can I purchase 5/32'' rubber?
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Re: Rubber
3 Options:lllazar wrote:Where can I purchase 5/32'' rubber?
1) Freedom Flight Models sells rubber cut to whatever width you want. $3.50 for 17g
2) Indoor Model Specialites sells the rubber stripper for $165. A good investment IF they keep Wright Stuff next year and don't go to the electric version
3) Find someone with a rubber stripper. Best bet would be to Join the AMA at modelaircraft.org (it's free for youths) and ask for their help finding someone in your area who may be able to help.
Good luck
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Re: Rubber
What is the best stuff to soak the ruber strips in to increase elasticity but retain the torque. I saw [quote="Frogger4907"]Use Armor all and put it in a cup and let it evaporate, so that all is left is mostly Si. making it more efficient.[/quote] but is this the best option?
- mrsteven
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Re: Rubber
but is this the best option?[/size][/quote]RocklinHighForTheWin wrote:What is the best stuff to soak the ruber strips in to increase elasticity but retain the torque. I saw [quote="Frogger4907"]Use Armor all and put it in a cup and let it evaporate, so that all is left is mostly Si. making it more efficient.
to start with large lettering isn't needed.
This can be determined by testing. This is one of those things that can be affected by how you wind, what thickness you use etc.
Personally, I use a brand of hand lotion I found to be most successful- Armorall seems to be too messy and slippery making small mistakes turn into large accidents.
This however, is just what I've found through my testing- and by no means have I tested everything out there, just what I fathomed to do trials with
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Re: Rubber
Subtle correction. Lubricants like Armorall don't change the elasticity of the rubber. They allow more of the elasticity to be used by preventing the rubber from cutting/damaging itself by internal friction as you wind it. You can put in more winds more reliably while winding with lubed motors than non-lubed motors before breaking.
And it is not really a soaking thing. You can apply, wipe off excess, and use band immediately.
As to which lube is most effective, that's going to be a pretty subtle effect between lubricants vs a VERY large effect lubricant to no lubricant. Probably not the most important thing to test until you have rubber/rotor match sorted out.
I would say to be careful on which lubricants you try, some common ones (vaseline jelly for example) attack rubber degrading its properties. Armorall and similar products made for plastics are proven. I'm not sure how TOO slick can be bad, though you need special notes to hold the rubber together, these are well known.
Handling mess. Like CA, you need to be careful where you get this stuff, it is slick, needs to be to do its job. I keep a zip-loc bag in my flying kit. Spray lube in the bag, drop in motor, rub around, pull motor out, wipe off excess, use. Your motors don't need to be dripping. Wipe hands on a rag also kept in kit.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
And it is not really a soaking thing. You can apply, wipe off excess, and use band immediately.
As to which lube is most effective, that's going to be a pretty subtle effect between lubricants vs a VERY large effect lubricant to no lubricant. Probably not the most important thing to test until you have rubber/rotor match sorted out.
I would say to be careful on which lubricants you try, some common ones (vaseline jelly for example) attack rubber degrading its properties. Armorall and similar products made for plastics are proven. I'm not sure how TOO slick can be bad, though you need special notes to hold the rubber together, these are well known.
Handling mess. Like CA, you need to be careful where you get this stuff, it is slick, needs to be to do its job. I keep a zip-loc bag in my flying kit. Spray lube in the bag, drop in motor, rub around, pull motor out, wipe off excess, use. Your motors don't need to be dripping. Wipe hands on a rag also kept in kit.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
- mrsteven
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Re: Rubber
too slippery meaning its much easier to make mistakes, let things slip. The plus of hand lotion, in my opinion, is it does the job very well and nothing is slippery- only slick. (and it is good for thy skin)
anyway, ya what I use degrades the rubber but it doesnt really matter as long as you use the rubber after application (within a few hours) after that you've got issues.
anyway, ya what I use degrades the rubber but it doesnt really matter as long as you use the rubber after application (within a few hours) after that you've got issues.
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Re: Rubber
You have to contact them directly. I believe there is an ordering form for you to mail in on that site (although I also thought they set up an online ordering system a few years ago too).thsom wrote:Where do you guys buy your rubber and winders? I tried fai model supply but i can't seem to order from there, all they have is prices.
Other options include indoor specialties (Ray Harlan) and f1d.biz out of Colorado.
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- illusionist
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Re: Rubber
Still no improved performance on 1/8th rubber
I have two helicopters, one with 2cm vertical spacing and 6cm tip to tip and another with 2cm vertical spacing and 8 cm tip to tip. Both produce times 10-15 seconds.
I've tried 2.0g (with 1200 turns), 1.5g (800 turns), and 1.3g (600 turns) of rubber (1.3 was best, at a very low 15 seconds). All at around 3.52 grams for the helicopter.
The flight path consists of rising about 4 feet (when released near the floor), spinning for a second, then slowly falling back down. I'm assuming the issue is power.
What can I do to improve flight times? I'm failing to see where the issue is with the helicopter... Weight is good, pitch doesn't seem high, rotors have a fairly mid-sized surface area, and I've tried different combinations of rubber. Any help?
I have two helicopters, one with 2cm vertical spacing and 6cm tip to tip and another with 2cm vertical spacing and 8 cm tip to tip. Both produce times 10-15 seconds.
I've tried 2.0g (with 1200 turns), 1.5g (800 turns), and 1.3g (600 turns) of rubber (1.3 was best, at a very low 15 seconds). All at around 3.52 grams for the helicopter.
The flight path consists of rising about 4 feet (when released near the floor), spinning for a second, then slowly falling back down. I'm assuming the issue is power.
What can I do to improve flight times? I'm failing to see where the issue is with the helicopter... Weight is good, pitch doesn't seem high, rotors have a fairly mid-sized surface area, and I've tried different combinations of rubber. Any help?
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