Boomilever B/C

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Boomilever B/C

Postby Jim_R » August 7th, 2013, 7:26 am

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby johnguackmbl » September 2nd, 2013, 9:47 pm

Some of the new 2014 resources on the soinc.org website. Can anyone tell me / diagram for me how a boomilever would attach to the wall with a J-bolt?

http://www.soinc.org/sites/default/file ... ns2014.pdf
http://www.soinc.org/sites/default/file ... lation.pdf
http://www.soinc.org/sites/default/file ... nStick.pdf

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby iwonder » September 2nd, 2013, 10:19 pm

That's really interesting... I would think initially the base from last year could be replaced with a dowel or rounded out piece of balsa that could slip into the j-hook and rest against it. It definitely gets rid of the issues of washers from last year :D
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby balsa » September 2nd, 2013, 10:35 pm

So excited for this upcoming season, the new J-bolt solves alot of limiting factors that were preventing booms from scoring higher with the past bolting system (easier mounting, so theres almost no way to incorrectly mount; booms won't slip off of the mounting wall, etc.)
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby fanjiatian » September 3rd, 2013, 11:50 am

Thank you for posting the testing apparatus set up!
I'm also confused about how to attach the base to the J-hook: would you need two holes? or a different shape?
Could someone explain this?

Also, what's the point of having a spring on the stabilization handle? I understand that the new rule prevents team members from touching buckets with their hands, but a stick with a spring?
Why not just a stick? :P

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby iwonder » September 3rd, 2013, 12:18 pm

I think the base from last year would be gone completely, you could just put a piece of wood between the tension members to hook onto the j-hook.

And the springs have been used at nats for a while, it makes it so you can't lift/support the bucket with a wooden stick. If you tried the spring would bend.
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby jander14indoor » September 3rd, 2013, 3:08 pm

The J hooks will absolutely require you to change the base, you have to slide your base over the hook, not remove and replace the hook through your base.

And DON'T underestimate how much thought, design work and testing will have to go into your new bases. It will still be the highest stressed part of your design, and if you aren't careful, the heaviest.

At first blush, the base would be a moderately hard piece of wood fitted closely to the inside of the J-hook and just over the thickness of the hook. Your tension pieces would then be attached to the sides of that piece (similar issues of high stress as the previous bases). Trick will be how 'moderately hard' is hard enough to not crush under the load and to provide a secure base large enough to attach the tension pieces too. Also how small you can get away with for this inner piece.

I'm also wondering about stability. Not much to prevent swaying side to side which will get you in trouble in a HURRY.

Hmm, thoughts on the grain for that centerpiece. I think you will want the grain pointing along the tension member as that's the most efficient direction to resist crush and allow the members to be attached long grain to long grain. Might bring up an issue of splitting.

I suspect once you get out very far (a few inches at most) from the attachment point, all the things/approaches used in prior years should still work.

Just some things to think about, have fun!

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby UQOnyx » September 5th, 2013, 5:28 pm

I am very very confused. Is the base supposed to 'hook' on to the J-bolt? Does that mean that the base will not rest on the testing wall? Can someone please post a diagram or a picture of how the boomilever will be mounted?
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby jander14indoor » September 5th, 2013, 6:06 pm

I don't have the rules on hand, so this is from memory, check rules for yourself.

The hooks are FIXED this year. You will have to slide the base over the gap and into the hook. I don't think the rules require the base to touch the wall, equally importantly, I don't see how you can slide them over the opening and into the hook and still touch the wall.

UNLESS it is required and you have to slide the base over the hook and slide a pin of some sort through the base on into the hook.

Pictures, sorry not my forte.
First case, think of the base as a loop of wood on the end of your tension members that slips over the hook.
Second case, think of the end of the tension member as a fork that slips around the hook sides and you have a pin of some sort between the fork tines that keeps it from slipping back.

Either way, VERY different base from prior years.

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby UQOnyx » September 6th, 2013, 9:03 pm

So does that mean that you are literally hooking on the boom to the testing wall? If it is being hooked on, though I'm not sure it may be a good idea, can't you get rid of a base altogether? Instead can't you bend the tension members in U-Shape in a jig, with the bend of the U being where the base is, and the forks of the U being the far end of the boom, and then just hook the U on the J-Hook?

Also, the wiki needs to be updated to reflect rule changes and to guide people like me ;).
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2012 Events:
Forestry
Storm The Castle


2013 Events:
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Shock Value
Forestry


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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby iwonder » September 7th, 2013, 5:09 am

Yes, that's precisely what you're doing. But by bending the wood that much you'd put so much stress on it that chances are it's moth worth it, but hey, I've been wrong plenty of times so the only thing you could do for certain is try it and find out!

Also, yes, all the new wikis need to be updated, just remember anyone with a scioly account can edit it ;)
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby UQOnyx » September 7th, 2013, 6:00 pm

Yeah, it might not be wise, but by reinforcing the stress-point with more wood and laminating it, it might altogether get rid of the need for a bulky base.It might be worth a try. The only problem is finding 3/16" bass longer than 24" so it would probably have to be ordered online.
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2012 Events:
Forestry
Storm The Castle


2013 Events:
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Shock Value
Forestry


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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby iwonder » September 7th, 2013, 6:24 pm

Hmm... Last year my lightest base that held full was .33g, so I wouldn't call the bases 'bulky' :P

Bass certainly would bend better than balsa, so that's a good plan, but I don't see any reason why a base for these j-hooks would have to be bulky in the first place, I think it could easily be lighter than mine from last year.

Now, that being said, bending the wood itself would do a lot to remove failures at the base due to bad glue or not enough glue area, so it's really all up in the air till someone tries it out.
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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby UQOnyx » September 8th, 2013, 8:33 am

So basically summing the J-Hook up; The base can be anything that works?
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2012 Events:
Forestry
Storm The Castle


2013 Events:
Boomilever
Shock Value
Forestry


I know the voices aren't real, but they have some great ideas..

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Re: Boomilever B/C

Postby iwonder » September 8th, 2013, 8:39 am

Sure, as long as it fits! I don't see why there would be any limits.
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