Battery Buggy B

shrewdPanther46
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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby shrewdPanther46 » Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:59 pm

I suggest the first link mentioned above. It is a very similar switch to the one I used (Rustin). It has a flat square base, so easy to mount without having to design some random stuff for it.
salty

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby WindmillWeaver25 » Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:24 am

Is there a length requirement for the buggy? :D

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby shrewdPanther46 » Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:36 am

WindmillWeaver25 wrote:Is there a length requirement for the buggy? :D


ma boi, it would help if you read the rules...
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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby brooke » Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:30 am

Hi, if you are using the battery buggy kit, with the plastic hub snap-ons, does anyone know how to get the hub snap-ons onto the threaded rod?

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby SlipStrike1244 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 10:51 pm

i have created a unrefined model of mine with basic parts. it stops at the target distance within 1 cm every time, goes 5 mph right now, but can go 17 mph unloaded once i get the right parts in all the way from china lol. for braking systems i used wingnut and threaded rod and i put a microswitch so the ends of the wingnut push on it. for glue i used hot glue because i hate working with superglue and it turned out fine. for the chassis is used wooden paintsticks. i used a 4 AA battery pack way back when radioshack was a thing (rip radioshack). i have the drive set of wheels in the front and the braking set of wheels on the back. i used splitted 4-conductor rainbow wires (again from radioshack) and soldered or glued connections. the front transmission is made of a gearbox, and the motor is a fast boi. for the wheels i just bought them online

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:16 pm

SlipStrike1244 wrote:i have created a unrefined model of mine with basic parts. it stops at the target distance within 1 cm every time, goes 5 mph right now, but can go 17 mph unloaded once i get the right parts in all the way from china lol. for braking systems i used wingnut and threaded rod and i put a microswitch so the ends of the wingnut push on it. for glue i used hot glue because i hate working with superglue and it turned out fine. for the chassis is used wooden paintsticks. i used a 4 AA battery pack way back when radioshack was a thing (rip radioshack). i have the drive set of wheels in the front and the braking set of wheels on the back. i used splitted 4-conductor rainbow wires (again from radioshack) and soldered or glued connections. the front transmission is made of a gearbox, and the motor is a fast boi. for the wheels i just bought them online

That's good! I am assuming that you used a 6V motor, but what was the rpm? Which wheels did you use?

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:30 pm

Should I put the braking system (wingnut and 1/8 threaded rod) on the front or back of the buggy?
2017-2018 Events: Battery Buggy, Mystery Architecture, and Towers
2018-2019 Events: Battery Buggy, Boomilever, Thermodynamics, maybe ELG

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:44 pm

Also, what is a good outer diameter the wheels? I am deciding between 3 7/8 inches (9.8425 cm) and 4 7/8 inches (12.3825 cm) T81 wheels from Banebots.com
2017-2018 Events: Battery Buggy, Mystery Architecture, and Towers
2018-2019 Events: Battery Buggy, Boomilever, Thermodynamics, maybe ELG

"“Son, if you really want something in this life, you have to work for it. Now quiet! They're about to announce the lottery numbers.” - Homer Simpson

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby SlipStrike1244 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:31 pm

put the wingnut braking on the back so the stopping is more natural and so that if you go too fast, you won't flip or something like that also, pick the 3 7/8th wheels. If the wheels are too big you might not have precision in braking with the wingnut. the motor was 32000 rpm unloaded at 6v and 39000rpm at 7.5v. i used lite flite wheels from towerhobbies.com

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:03 pm

SlipStrike1244 wrote:put the wingnut braking on the back so the stopping is more natural and so that if you go too fast, you won't flip or something like that also, pick the 3 7/8th wheels. If the wheels are too big you might not have precision in braking with the wingnut. the motor was 32000 rpm unloaded at 6v and 39000rpm at 7.5v. i used lite flite wheels from towerhobbies.com

Holy cow, you do mean 39000 rpm?! I was recommended to use a Polulu 25D with only 460 rpm by retired1.

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:06 pm

SlipStrike1244 wrote:put the wingnut braking on the back so the stopping is more natural and so that if you go too fast, you won't flip or something like that also, pick the 3 7/8th wheels. If the wheels are too big you might not have precision in braking with the wingnut. the motor was 32000 rpm unloaded at 6v and 39000rpm at 7.5v. i used lite flite wheels from towerhobbies.com

I assuming that the wingnut/threaded rod braking system should be on the front axle then.
Did you use bushings or ball bearings?
2017-2018 Events: Battery Buggy, Mystery Architecture, and Towers
2018-2019 Events: Battery Buggy, Boomilever, Thermodynamics, maybe ELG

"“Son, if you really want something in this life, you have to work for it. Now quiet! They're about to announce the lottery numbers.” - Homer Simpson

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby SlipStrike1244 » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:45 am

i used bushings and just drilled a hole in the frame and stuck the threaded rod through. for you, i recommend bearings because my trash frame gave me a problem: the threaded rod screwed into the bushings for some reason, and i had to spend a lot more time than i had to fixing it. it was worth it though. for a cheap price i could have the entire rod act like a bearing. and for the motor, i just wanted it to be fast so i could just put some hotwheels stickers on it.

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby SlipStrike1244 » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:44 pm

finally got the tamiya gearbox and wheels which work great, but the assembly is extremely time-consuming and may be difficult.

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby MadCow2357 » Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:39 pm

Getting T81 3 7/8 inch wheels from Banebots.com Do I need wheel hubs, or can I attach the wheels to the threaded rod without the hubs?

Also, I got a 1/8 inch threaded rod, but I realized how small the ball bearings with an inner diameter of 1/8" (outer diameter 1/4) would be on the frame, so I am trying to decide whether I should return the 1/8 threaded rod and get a 1/4 inch. It would bend less, and the ball bearings would be a more respectable size (around 1/2 outer diameter. This could just be the perfectionist inside me being a nuisance, but it bothers me.

1 inch by 1 inch wood is too thick for the frame, or am I wrong?

I need help... :( ... fast...
2017-2018 Events: Battery Buggy, Mystery Architecture, and Towers
2018-2019 Events: Battery Buggy, Boomilever, Thermodynamics, maybe ELG

"“Son, if you really want something in this life, you have to work for it. Now quiet! They're about to announce the lottery numbers.” - Homer Simpson

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Re: Battery Buggy B

Postby shrewdPanther46 » Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:02 pm

MadCow2357 wrote:Getting T81 3 7/8 inch wheels from Banebots.com Do I need wheel hubs, or can I attach the wheels to the threaded rod without the hubs?

Also, I got a 1/8 inch threaded rod, but I realized how small the ball bearings with an inner diameter of 1/8" (outer diameter 1/4) would be on the frame, so I am trying to decide whether I should return the 1/8 threaded rod and get a 1/4 inch. It would bend less, and the ball bearings would be a more respectable size (around 1/2 outer diameter. This could just be the perfectionist inside me being a nuisance, but it bothers me.

1 inch by 1 inch wood is too thick for the frame, or am I wrong?

I need help... :( ... fast...


1) you need hubs
2) dont buy a thicker size just because "it looks better", unless if your threaded rod is actually bending under the force of the vehicle, you have no reason to buy a new rod (i doubt it would bend in the first place)
3) 1"x1" is perfectly fine... theres no harm in having a slightly thicker frame because it will only be more sturdy.
salty


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