Helicopters C

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Duckman
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by Duckman »

Wabbit wrote:So, I've been doing helicopters for two years now and have gone through numerous iterations of my own designs, yet I feel like I must be missing some fundamental piece of the puzzle and was hoping someone here could help me out.

For context, my state banned the use of kits this year. I'm generally in support of the policy, since, at least to me, the thing that makes helicopters fun is coming up with your own designs. This means that getting one of the Freedom Flight Models kits is off the table for me as an option, but since the ban isn't in effect for most of the country, it can be hard to find solid advice on how to build a good helicopter from scratch.

Feeling like it would be too difficult to build a chinook, especially without a kit or set of plans to go off of, and knowing that other teams in my state also will have trouble utilizing the bonus due to the ban, I decided to go with a more standard design this year. So far, despite getting my helicopter to be super lightweight (just over 3.0 g), I haven't been able to do much better than about 45-50 second flight times. The most obvious reason for this is that I haven't been able to put more than roughly 300 total winds in my motor. This is an obvious difference between my design and some of the better ones from last year which, if I'm not mistaken, were using upwards of 1500 winds. The other main difference between my designs and objectively better ones is that my frame is significantly shorter, probably only about 30 cm long instead of what appeared to be closer to 90 cm long frames that were being used by the kits from last year.

So, then, the fix should be obvious to me, right? I make a much longer frame which allows me to use a much longer rubber band thereby allowing me to put in many more winds. But this hasn't worked. Every time I try to go with a longer rubber band, a larger frame, or both, I end up getting much shorter flight times. I would imagine this is due to the helicopter as a whole weighing significantly more. Even if I manage to keep the frame lightweight, the added length of the rubber motor makes the whole thing a lot heavier. I've experimented with every possible combination of sizes, and, using my current rotors, the thing that has worked the best is a super small frame with a relatively short rubber band. But I know from seeing other teams at competitions that this sort of design isn't supposed to yield good results, nor has it yet been able to replicate the times of even moderately good teams.

So I guess my question is, what were the kits from last year doing differently? How was it that they were able to use such a long rubber motor and such a large frame without the whole thing weighing way too much?

Thanks for your help!
Question: Is your state Massachusetts by any chance?

Last year I received 1st place in Massachusetts without Dave Zeigler's kit. This is because the event coordinator placed a significant penalty on all teams that flew the kit with its Carbon Fiber and Kevlar. My design looked somewhat similar to Mr.Zeigler's (great guy btw). My time was about 63 seconds without any bonuses. If you are interested I can dig it up and try to send you a picture it is a coaxial design.
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by coachchuckaahs »

I am puzzled as to how a EC can apply a penalty in a purely timed event? Were teams tiered if they used a kit? What if they used carbon and kevlar, but it was not a kit?

The rules clearly allow a kit, and the only prohibited material is boron fiber. I suppose a Regional or State even could advertise in advance that kits will be tiered, but how could an EC "penalize" kits or materials that fit the rules?

We built last year without a kit, as our Regions and States are early (January and February), so we need to build before kits are available. However, we did utilize carbon and kevlar in order to make minimum weight. With axial heli's at minimum weight, the designs tend to look similar, with carbon spars, and carbon reinforcement or kevlar rigging on the motor stick.

This year, with the large bonus for Chinook, there is perhaps more room for design variations. However, Dave has something working nicely, and the overall layout of competitive designs may end up being very similar. With Dave's success, it is hard to start without a kit, though once a kit is built, perhaps you can look at design variations for improvements or personal touch. We again had to build without a kit due to timing, but were our Regions later in the year I woudl probably have started my kids with a kit.

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Re: Helicopters C

Post by parikhy »

On the topic of kits, how many times do you wind total with the latest freedom flight kits? I'm trying to get to 35 feet. Considering ceiling heights and all, my event will not be taking place in the gym. I have read the previous comments about winding.
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by retired1 »

Rubber varies quite a bit, even in the same lot or spool, so you really need to do some testing to find out the breaking point. The FF chopper is fairly strong as far as the main motor booms go, so I do not think that you will have a problem with too much power with the smaller rubber provided. As he says, if it breaks, get out the CA glue (and hardener if you need it right now).
Old information that used to work fairly close was 1/8" rubber would take 106 turns per inch of use-able band. For 0.100 rubber, I would expect about 115 turns per inch to the breaking point. This is with a pre stretched band and a start wind distance of 6-7 vs the 4 recommended.
A torque meter will give you a world of valuable information about the breaking point and flights will tell you if you need to dewind a bit.
It is getting a bit late to do much testing with rotor pitch.
I assume that everyone is using a pitch gauge to insure that both blades on both rotors are the same.
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by parikhy »

This is going to sound crazy, but any advice on hand cranking? Anyone have any tips or know how to build a winder? I don't think I will have one by the time regionals comes around, although I am doing my best to try and get my hands on one.
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by JojoCho »

parikhy wrote:This is going to sound crazy, but any advice on hand cranking? Anyone have any tips or know how to build a winder? I don't think I will have one by the time regionals comes around, although I am doing my best to try and get my hands on one.
Worst case scenario you could always borrow a winder from someone at the tournament. But if you really want to make one, you could get like some sort of block, drill a hole through it, stick a dowel through the hole (make sure it can rotate freely), attach a sort of hook to the end of the dowel (holds the rubber band), and have a sort of handle on the other side of the dowel which you will use to turn. So it's like
7-----[ ]--o
7 is the rubber band hook, ---- is the dowel, [ ] is the block thing (use this to hold on while winding, basically the yellow block thing you see on Dave's winders), o is the turning handle

Really ratchet design but if you're short on time this might work
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by DoctaDave »

parikhy wrote:This is going to sound crazy, but any advice on hand cranking? Anyone have any tips or know how to build a winder? I don't think I will have one by the time regionals comes around, although I am doing my best to try and get my hands on one.
You can make one out of lego gears and brackets. I believe I've seen a picture of one floating around the forums somewhere, but I can't find it. :(
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by DaPlug »

What are the highest raw times people have seen at competitions lately for chinooks?
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by eli9778 »

Is it legal to 3D-print your helicopter's propellers?
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Re: Helicopters C

Post by Unome »

DaPlug wrote:What are the highest raw times people have seen at competitions lately for chinooks?
I've yet to hear of anything higher than about 2:15 raw time.
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