Wright Stuff C

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klastyioer
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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby klastyioer » December 6th, 2018, 4:45 am

DarthBuilder wrote:
klastyioer wrote:
DarthBuilder wrote:Sorry for lots of questions. How can I make my prop turn slower? I know that there are ways to do this but I'm not sure.


lol dont worry thats what this is for. ask as many questions as you would like. yeah u need a higher pitch but you'd have to make your own props in order to change the pitch. you can either use plastic bottles or balsa sheets to do this. do you know how to make paper tubes? if so i can run you through on how to make a prop


Yeah, I know how to make them. Thanks


cool let us know if you need any help with that
honestly, it's not about the medals. go out there and have fun. make progress, learn a few things, have one heck of a time, because that's all that matters.

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby TheCowboyandhisArk » December 6th, 2018, 5:33 am

jfmath04 wrote:Do any of you have experience in designing your own plane?


For state last year we had about a month and a half to fidget and fix out things.

My teammate spent that trying to get a good 2-minute flight out of his freedom flight kit.

I didn't have much interest in building a kit plane, so immediately took a look at my plane that i had built for the Invitational and Regional tourney, I noticed that the flex in my motor stick was decent variable in my flights.

I immediately went to work to try to reduce the flex.

Long story short I designed a new (But kinda heavy) motor stick with a sanded down 1/4 inch balsa stick, and I glued and wrapped a carbon fiber rod to it. (wear gloves and a respirator PLEASE when you sand that stuff, I made that mistake and it's not nice).

I modified a wing design that one of the coaches had made up, which was cool because it allowed for more surface area while staying under the 40cm (At the time) wingspan.

and just to look different I put the verticle stab on top like most big boy airplanes.

IN the end, we competed with that plane, and it landed in a basketball hoop at like a minute and 5 seconds, then it broke when my teammate was getting it down. so sadly we didn't place well, but the plane flew amazingly before it hit the ceiling, a basketball hoop and broke. My school has relatively short rooms to practice in and a good bit of ceiling clutter, but the longest I got it to fly was 1:59.9 seconds. (Keep your rubber bands tight, mine snapped forward when it was 3 feet off the ground and it nosedived)


Wow, that went longer than I needed it, eh.

How may I be of assistance (If still needed)?
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Wright Stuff

andrewwski
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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby andrewwski » December 6th, 2018, 10:36 am

Polar wrote:
DarthBuilder wrote:I saw a few teams use some sort of plastic mylar type of tissue with green lettering on it. Anyone know the name of it?


I'm not quite sure if my answer is correct, but I think it might've been the mylar provided in the ward's kit. Last year, my partner and I ordered a ward's kit, and the mylar covering provided in it was a clear, plastic trash bag with green lettering. If ward's is using the same covering, then you might've saw the ward kit's mylar.


Typically produce bags from the grocery store are used over trash bags. They frequently have green lettering on them - so that might have been it.

Produce bags are pretty light and are actually a decent choice for covering.
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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby bjt4888 » December 6th, 2018, 2:02 pm

Darthbuilder and Katy,

In reply to the question about increasing pitch, probably you already know about this, but you can twist the Ikara propeller spar near the root of the blade using a sturdy pair of needle nose pliers. I hold the rest of the prop stationary by gripping the hub with my fingers. For just a second, this takes a fair amount of finger strength holding the hub. If your fingers are not this strong, you could hold with a second pair of needle nose pliers on the spar right next to the hub. The stock propellers usually have a pitch of between 11.0” and 12.8” (between 38 and 42 degrees as measured using the FF pitch gauge).

Of course, making your own propellers is an excellent idea. We typically start the season with a couple styles of propellers and several different pitches.

Brian T

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby klastyioer » December 6th, 2018, 3:44 pm

bjt4888 wrote:Darthbuilder and Katy,

In reply to the question about increasing pitch, probably you already know about this, but you can twist the Ikara propeller spar near the root of the blade using a sturdy pair of needle nose pliers. I hold the rest of the prop stationary by gripping the hub with my fingers. For just a second, this takes a fair amount of finger strength holding the hub. If your fingers are not this strong, you could hold with a second pair of needle nose pliers on the spar right next to the hub. The stock propellers usually have a pitch of between 11.0” and 12.8” (between 38 and 42 degrees as measured using the FF pitch gauge).

Of course, making your own propellers is an excellent idea. We typically start the season with a couple styles of propellers and several different pitches.

Brian T


okay thanks
honestly, it's not about the medals. go out there and have fun. make progress, learn a few things, have one heck of a time, because that's all that matters.

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby Rossyspsce » December 10th, 2018, 8:00 am

With the semi high cost of kits, is it feasible to 3D print my ribs and rudder, modeling it after the FF kit?

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby CrayolaCrayon » December 10th, 2018, 8:06 am

Rossyspsce wrote:With the semi high cost of kits, is it feasible to 3D print my ribs and rudder, modeling it after the FF kit?


If cost is an issue, you could buy one FF kit, and just model off of that; I've heard of some who have made CAD profiles of the pieces in the past.

There are also partial kits, which are 20 dollars cheaper, or you could send a special request to Zeigler himself and get a quote on the balsa sheet cutouts.
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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby coachchuckaahs » December 10th, 2018, 10:15 am

Once you have the building techniques and overall design, it is relatively simple to cut ribs and such. The parts you are talking about would be far heavier 3-D printed, and far more work to make. The ribs are generally circular, at 6% (wing), and 4% (tail, typical), and thus easy to make a template. For stronger ribs, curve some balsa the "hard way" in the oven or microwave by taping to a circular form, then slice using a balsa stripper or even just a knife.

The harder issue will be getting all the carbon, prop angers, etc. From difference sources, the shipping costs will add up. You may find that Dave's kit is actually a bargain at that point, especially if you get the partial kits after your first full kit.

If you are rebuilding a wrecked plane, then all you really need is the balsa parts, and they are pretty easy to cut or form then cut.

We make our own from scratch, but I have a stock of balsa, hangers, covering, carbon, etc. that I have acquired over the last few years.

Coach Chuck

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby klastyioer » December 10th, 2018, 4:42 pm

Rossyspsce wrote:With the semi high cost of kits, is it feasible to 3D print my ribs and rudder, modeling it after the FF kit?


3d printing may add a bit more weight to your plane and if you know how to make both the ribs and rudder the right way, you shouldnt have to invest in 3d printing those parts. creating a round template for the ribs and cutting them along the template each time to create even curves and ribs will allow for a lot less hassle in the future. the rudder is fairly easy to make, and doesnt necessarily have to be rounded like the one in the ff kit. it could be a rectangle or a square, try experimenting because they dont take long to make at all. like crayola said, you could just go onto ff website and special request for laser cut pieces if you really want to, but its all up to works best for you, your budget, and your plane.
honestly, it's not about the medals. go out there and have fun. make progress, learn a few things, have one heck of a time, because that's all that matters.

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby Rossyspsce » December 15th, 2018, 12:37 pm

With the limited time spots and areas for testing Wright stuff at my school, anyone have suggestions for other areas? Also, is it possible to test in a room that is large enough for the circumference but only 10-15 feet high?

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby klastyioer » December 15th, 2018, 12:47 pm

Rossyspsce wrote:With the limited time spots and areas for testing Wright stuff at my school, anyone have suggestions for other areas? Also, is it possible to test in a room that is large enough for the circumference but only 10-15 feet high?


what we tend to do is work in any large area that doesnt have a lot of sharp corners or lights that can catch onto the plane. so our school has a somewhat fair sized lobby, an auditorium (which isnt so great because of the chairs), two gyms, a wrestling gym, a few music rooms, and a cafeteria. try to get somewhere wide and tall with few things in the way. lights, chairs, corners, and ceilings are all examples of things you try to avoid. if it seems too risky, dont do it. youre better off waiting a bit than risking your whole plane. your testing room probably wont work considering the amount of climb your plane probably has. another suggestion is to go in early to school to get your gym reserved. almost always it will be open in the morning rather than the afternoon.
honestly, it's not about the medals. go out there and have fun. make progress, learn a few things, have one heck of a time, because that's all that matters.

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby bjt4888 » December 15th, 2018, 1:05 pm

Rossy,

1/2 motor testing will climb to half height and use half turns. A spacer half the hook to hook length and weighing half the full motor is necessary. I believe that ther is a forum post describing this technique.

Brian T

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby Rossyspsce » December 15th, 2018, 5:32 pm

sorry for asking another question so quickly, but has anyone gotten the chance to test all the different kits and figure the largest differences between?

The kits I'm referring to are as follows

https://www.freedomflightmodels.com/models.php

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1-1.aspx

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1.aspx

http://jhaerospace.com/product/senior-f ... est-model/

http://main.guruengineeringtech.com/sto ... d-supplies

https://lasercutplanes.com/index.php?p=1_2

Thanks,

Rós

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby klastyioer » December 15th, 2018, 5:37 pm

Rossyspsce wrote:sorry for asking another question so quickly, but has anyone gotten the chance to test all the different kits and figure the largest differences between?

The kits I'm referring to are as follows

https://www.freedomflightmodels.com/models.php

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1-1.aspx

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1.aspx

http://jhaerospace.com/product/senior-f ... est-model/

http://main.guruengineeringtech.com/sto ... d-supplies

https://lasercutplanes.com/index.php?p=1_2

Thanks,

Rós


lol dont be afraid to ask questions this is what this website is for. ive only tested one so i dont have much of a chance at helping you with this. theyre all interesting choices though. what i can see off the bat is they all vary in design, whether its covering, sizing, props, or really anything. thatll probably affect your ability to alter anything.
honestly, it's not about the medals. go out there and have fun. make progress, learn a few things, have one heck of a time, because that's all that matters.

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Re: Wright Stuff C

Postby CrayolaCrayon » December 15th, 2018, 5:51 pm

Rossyspsce wrote:sorry for asking another question so quickly, but has anyone gotten the chance to test all the different kits and figure the largest differences between?

The kits I'm referring to are as follows

https://www.freedomflightmodels.com/models.php

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1-1.aspx

http://retrorc.us.com/katana-3-2-2-2-2-1-1.aspx

http://jhaerospace.com/product/senior-f ... est-model/

http://main.guruengineeringtech.com/sto ... d-supplies

https://lasercutplanes.com/index.php?p=1_2

Thanks,

Rós


I've had very good experiences with Freedom Flight in the past; very high quality kits, and their designs are always competitive.
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