I’d just build it on a testing wall. I made a version where the hook is about 14.8 cm above the bottom of a standing wall, so I can literally just build on top of a table and against the wall.retired1 wrote:Answer to the question would be to use math. My preference would be to make a scale drawing and measure it.If the tension members are from the hook to the load eye bolt, then I think you have it reversed. But,if you have the angle of attachment to the main portion, then it will always be at a level orientation. The height above the do not exceed line will vary.
Not a problem if you accurately graph it. I like the large quad paper from office depot.
Actually, I put it in my "Model Smart 3 D" computer program and it does all of that for me as well as accurately predict the results for what ever densities I entered into it.
Boomilever B/C
- TheSquaad
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Re: Boomilever B/C
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Re: Boomilever B/C
A dowel-shaped piece should suffice. Bass might be useful to avoid compressing the wood from the very high stress. I doubt other orientations provide enough benefit to be worth the cost of damaging wood fibers (e.g. bending).OpticsNerd wrote:Any tips on how to make the J-Hook contact point strong?
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Re: Boomilever B/C
If you mean that the boom would touch the table--If I were the ES, I would disqualify your boom.TheSquaad wrote:I’d just build it on a testing wall. I made a version where the hook is about 14.8 cm above the bottom of a standing wall, so I can literally just build on top of a table and against the wall.
Last edited by Unome on October 10th, 2018, 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: fixed broken quote tags
Reason: fixed broken quote tags
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Re: Boomilever B/C
This will depend on your unique design... How are you attaching at the top? How thick is your mounting block? Will the tension rod extend all the way through it? Where will your tension rod intersect the compression beam? Will it extend all the way past the compression beam?Cow481 wrote:How would you figure out the length of the tension pieces. The window of length would seem very tight. If you make it to short, the boomilever would sit at a downward angle from the loading block angle and if it was to long, the boomilever would also sit at an upward angle from the loading block.
I agree with Retired... Come up with your design, then draw a scale model, either pencil & paper, or CAD... Then just measure.
I can tell you this much: In 99% of the designs, your tension rods can come from 24" sticks and your compression beams can come from half of a 36" stick for ordering purposes.
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Re: Boomilever B/C
I assume you are talking about using the table only as a temporary support to maintain a 90 degree angle of the compression beams to the wall. Of course this would only work assuming the vertical wall is at a 90 degree angle to the table. (Notice I did not say perfectly vertical, as if the table were not level, the wall should not perfectly vertical, but 90 degrees to the table.)retired1 wrote:If you mean that the boom would touch the table--If I were the ES, I would disqualify your boom.TheSquaad wrote:I’d just build it on a testing wall. I made a version where the hook is about 14.8 cm above the bottom of a standing wall, so I can literally just build on top of a table and against the wall.
Dan Holdgreve
Northmont Science Olympiad
Dedicated to the Memory of Len Joeris
"For the betterment of Science"
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"For the betterment of Science"
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Re: Boomilever B/C
What are some ideas to make my boom stronger near the base or at the base? My booms have always ripped where the base is and everything else is intact.
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Re: Boomilever B/C
Do you currently have your tension members parallel to the compression members? From what I am planning to do, I'd make the base width small but still keeping enough space for the hook to rest on a horizontal member, almost so it looks like a "V" at the end. Also, what kind of glue are you using for the base?DarthBuilder wrote:What are some ideas to make my boom stronger near the base or at the base? My booms have always ripped where the base is and everything else is intact.
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Re: Boomilever B/C
Does anyone know of a way to test the tensile strength of a piece of wood (without using any high-end machinery)? From what I have been doing so far, I have been putting force on a scale and trying to imitate that force on the tension sticks, though I believe that it is nowhere near accurate.
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Re: Boomilever B/C
Carrot wrote:Do you currently have your tension members parallel to the compression members? From what I am planning to do, I'd make the base width small but still keeping enough space for the hook to rest on a horizontal member, almost so it looks like a "V" at the end. Also, what kind of glue are you using for the base?DarthBuilder wrote:What are some ideas to make my boom stronger near the base or at the base? My booms have always ripped where the base is and everything else is intact.
Yeah everything seems to be in place. I use Bob Smith CA glue (purple bottle)
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