Propellers
- eta150
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Re: Propellers
At the risk of sounding like a fool, are the ikara props easily attached to the Ray Harlan assembly? And, if so, is there enough of a difference that it is worth it?
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Re: Propellers
I find it easy to do. Cut the wire on the old hanger. Replace with new .020 (I think, should check) music wire.
I find it worth doing because I find the Ikara prop hanger flimsy and hard to attach properly. The Harlan is more robust and easier to attach to the plane. For me.
Even better than the Harlan SO hanger is the Penny Plane hanger which has a split tail allowing the prop to be changed without cutting the wire.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
I find it worth doing because I find the Ikara prop hanger flimsy and hard to attach properly. The Harlan is more robust and easier to attach to the plane. For me.
Even better than the Harlan SO hanger is the Penny Plane hanger which has a split tail allowing the prop to be changed without cutting the wire.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
- smartkid222
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Re: Propellers
Are you comparing this:eta150 wrote:At the risk of sounding like a fool, are the ikara props easily attached to the Ray Harlan assembly? And, if so, is there enough of a difference that it is worth it?
(is this what is considered the Ikara prop hanger)?
and the Ray Harlan assembly?
If that is the ikara prop hanger then: when i did WS i used the freedom flights kits which used the ikara prop hanger which worked fine. The prop fits well into the hanger. the hanger is glued fairly well into the Motor Stick, you just have to make a cut which a part of the hanger fits into. I dont know if it's much better using the ray harlan assembly. I dont see any benefit except for less weight, but for WS the weight limit is easy to get close to.
Also thinking about Jeff's comment, the ikara prop hanger makes the prop detachable.
For the Harlan SO thrust bearing you can use .020" music wire for the prop shaft
for the Harlan Penny plane the hole is SMALLER, so you need less than ~ .017" MS
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Re: Propellers
Yes - the image posted above shows the Ikara prop hanger from two different viewing angles (side view and rear perspective view).
At one time you could purchase prop hangers from a supplier named Geauga that were suitable for Wright Stuff planes. They were fabricated from a tiny block of Aluminum alloy that was precision milled. These beautiful pieces of workmanship were not subject to bending on frontal impact during flights and had a pig tail rear end that allowed removal and replacement of the prop. They were comparable in weight to the Ikara and Harlan SO prop hangers. A picture of the Geauga prop hanger is shown below. Personally I prefer the Geauga prop hanger.
At one time you could purchase prop hangers from a supplier named Geauga that were suitable for Wright Stuff planes. They were fabricated from a tiny block of Aluminum alloy that was precision milled. These beautiful pieces of workmanship were not subject to bending on frontal impact during flights and had a pig tail rear end that allowed removal and replacement of the prop. They were comparable in weight to the Ikara and Harlan SO prop hangers. A picture of the Geauga prop hanger is shown below. Personally I prefer the Geauga prop hanger.
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Re: Propellers
I will try to post an image of the Geauga prop hanger again in this thread. If you can't see it go to the Image Gallery.
1985|9/August_20_2006_006_edited.jpg
1985|9/August_20_2006_006_edited.jpg
- smartkid222
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Re: Propellers
oh yeah. i've seen those before. the person who was showing it to me said it was some good stuff. never tired it personaly though. too bad they dont make them anymore.calgoddard wrote:I will try to post an image of the Geauga prop hanger again in this thread. If you can't see it go to the Image Gallery.
1985|9/August_20_2006_006_edited.jpg
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Re: Propellers
Not without a lot more information. To start, what's not working? How is your plane built/trimmed?
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Re: Propellers
The ROG Shoebox model is a fine plane, but marginal to the WS rules, too small.
That said, put it on a diet. Use smaller wood cross sections and lighter wood than comes in the kit. Delete the landing gear. Lighten the prop. Select a lighter wing covering. WHATEVER it takes to get down to the rule minimum of 7.0 gms without rubber.
Use the maximum 1.5 gm of rubber, measure it yourself, what's in the kit isn't likely to be that amount. You'll probably need a larger cross-section than recommended in other places on this forum because of the small wing, but smaller than I remember being in the kit. It will fly nicely if you get it right, say 30 to 45 seconds, maybe a minute. Not much more than that.
Build and trim carefully per instructions in kit of course.
If you want something beyond what that model is capable of, start by reviewing the many messages already in this subsection of the board. Lots of hints and tips on better designs and longer flight times.
Thanks,
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
That said, put it on a diet. Use smaller wood cross sections and lighter wood than comes in the kit. Delete the landing gear. Lighten the prop. Select a lighter wing covering. WHATEVER it takes to get down to the rule minimum of 7.0 gms without rubber.
Use the maximum 1.5 gm of rubber, measure it yourself, what's in the kit isn't likely to be that amount. You'll probably need a larger cross-section than recommended in other places on this forum because of the small wing, but smaller than I remember being in the kit. It will fly nicely if you get it right, say 30 to 45 seconds, maybe a minute. Not much more than that.
Build and trim carefully per instructions in kit of course.
If you want something beyond what that model is capable of, start by reviewing the many messages already in this subsection of the board. Lots of hints and tips on better designs and longer flight times.
Thanks,
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
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